Відео

how did you get a boot disk working for pc task its an absolute nightmare without a real pc drive or amiga drive

Started with an A500. Added a HDD. Then bought a (second hand) A2000. Ended up selling both to get an A1200 which is still going strong! Wish I could have kept them all.

I came here hoping to find out the proper way to get the board and shielding out of the plastic case, haha! Best I could figure is flexing the case at the right to release the mouse/joystick ports. The slots in the shielding that mate with fins in the case make it hard to move any way but up.

Como se llama el condensador de la fuente que has cambiado? He visto tu vídeo y tengo justo el mismo problema. Muchas gracias por la información

Materials are used

Great work. I'm looking to replace the faulty 20mb XT drive in my A590 with a BlueSCSI v2. Could you supply the v7 ROMs or do you know where they can be sourced from?

You could swap out that PSU in the ATARI 520 STE with a Meanwell PSU.

Might have to send you my 64 so you can work your wizardry on it, when i connect it to power and video it just doesn't do anything anymore 😢😢

2 years later, hmm wonder if I can get this ls120 working so I can move files to my atari ST?

oh no. no more "phone me" message??

Transport Tycoon Deluxe Song in background! 😅

Just thinking if you could get the sample rate to 384000Khz might give a better quality sound.

There must be some Electronics Parts Centers near to You that might have what you are looking for.

Hello CRG, you are living my dream. I have an original Amiga 500 and would like to boot Workbench 1.3 in German via an SD card and with Fast Ram. Can you help me and put together a complete package for stupid people.(Hardware Kickstart Rom, adapter etc. and software ready SD card) Best regards Hannes

Couldn't help but read the comments before the end :) Based on what I understand, you still have some Everdrive issues. What I think is most likely: The HuCard connector needs more TLC. My theory is that the Everdrive is ever so slightly thicker than a HuCard and prying the connector by a tiny amount which is either creating an issue with the connectors themselves (the part that physically and directly interface with the pads on the Everdrive) or a cracked solder joint on one/some of the pins. You seem to have different results based on the positioning of the daughterboard, many people seem to think that you should blame the ribbon, I don't think so, else you'd have issues with the HuCard, too. Short of a faulty Everdrive, the only difference is the thickness. That or you're not giving enough power but I saw you use a MD1 PSU at some point, which should be enough.

Why have a CF card buried in the 1200 when you could just use a PCMCIA-to-CF adapter and put the CF card in there?

you could convert trapdoor ram to chip, its an easy hack.

With my Amiga I only use my disk drive to image disks. These can be created in ADF format for use and to backup the disk. You can also image out to a disk if it fails or the data gets corrupted.

Fantastic work, and it's fascinating how sensitive electronics are! Marvellous!

ben heck hacks

Why are you asking us? Should I look in the crystal ball before clicking the vid?

Back in 1985 I didn't have an EPROM eraser so I put them without anything covering the window in direct sunlight for days on end but not a single bit flipped. They are quite resilient and just absolutely do not get erased that easily. You really need harsh hard UV light to do that. Maybe you could repeat this experiment yourself, it it quite hard to get a single bit flipped with normal light, nearly impossible. Just burn one and keep it in the sun all summer, I bet it will keep on verifying okay.

9:36 shouldn't the red trace go to the resistor R12 instead of R13?

Glen, your videos are much needed freshness in the topic of retro repairs. Straight to the point, no nonsense stuff that we need. Lovely job!

Logical path tracing method to find the break. Nicely done as usual, bud. Another beauty retro system repaired. 🍻

New Z80's are $17 on Mouser but they're out of stock right now. Also be aware there are 2 CS lines on the ROM and EPROM and they are different depending on which one is installed.

CRG other channels would make hour plus long videos with operatic levels of melodrama and lots of exaggerated facial expressions. Yours is a genius quick and methodical diagnosis and fix. Nice, thank you and I've learned a lot from this video.

A quick niggle, the silk screen layer is only where you see printed lettering captions on the board. The conformal coating is probably what you were thinking of, the usually green insulation layer covering all but the solder pads on a modern circuit board. This is the layer below any silk screening.

The heat of the desoldering process might have affected an(probably) already doggy trace. Pressing the CPU back in the socket might broken it.

Can it run Wolfenstein 3D?

It's mad how simple those scematics are compared to the stuff today.

great work

Love the pose in the thumbnail :)

I had a some Amiga kickstart EPROMs with NO sticker on it's window sitting on my windowsill for almost 30 years and they still read ok. Oh This is in England though so not the sunniest of places.

Great accomplishment!!

Great find on the broken data line trace and nice technique in repairing it. Fred

you said it yourself, its yours.

So an 8086 emulator running on a 68000 emulator running on a risc processor..

seems much worse than a supraturbo28

I have ide68k + 8mb ram + sd2ide device and i am facing loading times for workbench above 5 minutes... What is the problem????

What is the orange tape you use to cover other components to isolate and insulate them when de-soldering nearby components?

¡Thank you for this video! 🙂 This text was translated with ChatGPT. I only speak Spanish well. For my Mistica FPGA setup, I used a Kickstart 1.3 with scsi.device and to partition the hard drive (or CF card) I used the A590 installation disk. This disk includes HDToolbox, which allows you to perform this operation. Additionally, you can install Workbench 1.3 and Extras 1.3 on the CF after partitioning and formatting it. I suppose this can be extrapolated to a real Amiga, since I did all this with the A590 from its startup. With WinUAE, you can set up an A500 with the modified Kickstart 1.3, and you can perform the A590 installation as if it were real. Additionally, if you run WinUAE as an administrator, you can mount real drives (the CF card as a real drive) and do it from within using the disk you will later use on the Amiga. From the website "Get your Amiga install disks here!" you can download the A590 installation disk, as well as other interesting ones, if you have second-hand expansions but they came without their software/disks.

download links long dead :(

The STs all survived because they have no Varta batteries. Nice 'cat action' act 10:24

Fantastic work sir... and what a lovely bit of kit! ZX Spectrum and SID living together in perfect harmony!

Hi , thank you for the video . what about the scroll ? is it smooth ? can you test shadow of the beast game intro ? and how its scroll .. i would like to know ?

its cheaper and eiser to just have a usb to 3.5 floppy. pluss you can just put it away when not using it and probably even still use it for decades from now on any computer

Good work. Nice to see another old console back in working order. I'm glad you found my schematics useful.